As I sit on the grass during a sunny Monday lunch break, munching on a baked sweet potato, a ripe avocado falls from towering branches above and lands next to me. And I think, “I was doing storytimes at Port Melbourne a year ago. How on earth did I get here?”

“Here” is the manicured gardens of the Papua New Guinea Institute of Medical Research (PNGIMR), located in the Eastern Highlands town of Goroka. Recent weather has been mild, the regular afternoon rains giving way to an El Nino-influenced period of calm. Today I walked to work. Yesterday I climbed a mountain.

I have been in this place for almost a year now. My official title is Library Services Mentor through the Australian Volunteers Program, which is funded through the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, but I ask my workmates to call me “Michael”. Given my profession and the popularity of pulp newspaper strip The Phantom here, I have also been trying to make “The Ghost Who Weeds” catch on with my library colleagues, unsuccessfully. The locals on the street call me “waitman” (white man), or “bossman” – only one of which is strictly accurate – but it is always delivered with a welcoming smile.

The people here are always smiling. They are hugging and shaking hands, and it is not only for the benefit of a tall, middle-aged Caucasian dude. They are part of a greater family called “wantok” (also called “apo” up here), an informal network which extends from the villages around Mt Wilhelm to the built-up coastal areas of Port Moresby and the islands beyond. I have a sneaking suspicion that everyone in this country knows everyone else.

My workplace, PNGIMR, is a medical research institute heavily intertwined with the history of PNG, developing malaria and pneumonia solutions, delivering STD and HIV/AIDS education, vaccination drives, and being instrumental in solving the medical mystery of diseases like “kuru” (Look it up! It’s pretty bad!). They have been here since 1968, seven years before PNG achieved independence.

PNGIMR also has a library! I have been working there over the past year with my PNGIMR wantok to train researchers, help move collections, support the reimagining of study spaces, and all the fun things that librarians and archivists in Australia get to do. This week I’ve been looking at old photos to put into an exhibition. Next week I’ll be delivering a workshop for new staff members about what, amongst other things, a “Boolean Operator” is, and possibly travelling to a local village to deliver books to a school. (Books 4 PNG Kids is a great charity, if you’re ever keen on donations).

There are challenges, of course. Some are more common in the low- and middle-income countries (power blackouts), and some are those that many librarians can relate to (we probably don’t need to keep these copies of PC Magazine from 1991). But it is an adventure: one that I’ve had before, and one I’ll likely have again.

Dear INCITE reader: through the Australian Volunteers Program you can embark on such an adventure too! Here are some answers to burning questions you may have:

Volunteer?! That means I don’t get paid! What will I do about money?

Allowances and reimbursements are provided! Flights and insurance are paid for, and reasonable medical expenses can be reimbursed. The allowance gives you enough for modest accommodation and living costs on assignments (for food and groceries and other necessities). It’s not enough to pay, say, a mortgage back in Australia (Hey tenants! Hope the heater is still working!), but I found I wasn't losing money either. You also get sick leave, and annual leave for sightseeing and such. More information is available here.

Will I have to give up my job in Australia?

Not necessarily! Accommodating workplaces may offer Annual Leave and/or Leave Without Pay, so you can jump back into your old role upon return. But give them plenty of notice!

Can I take my partner/kids/pets?

Yes, yes, and no.

You can get financial support for a partner and children to join you on an assignment of 12 months or longer, after some compliance and safety checks. Learn more here.

Unfortunately, furry friends are not allowed. 🙁

Where can I go? Is it just in Papua New Guinea?

All over the place! I was in Myanmar for 6 months in 2019, and while the program no longer works in Myanmar, you can find assignments in 26 other countries, including Vanuatu, Nepal, Bhutan, the Solomon Islands, South Africa, Mongolia, and many more. A list is here.

Is it safe?

As safe as it can be. You’re encouraged to take precautions, and some countries have flat out no-go areas, but you are generally given all the assistance and information you could possibly need.

What about–

I’m reaching the end of my allotted word count here, so I’ll have to refer this one to my friends at the Australian Volunteers Program. If you want more first-hand testimony, though, you can contact me via the various options at the bottom of this article. Or join me for a coffee! (I miss Melbourne coffee so much)

But it’s worth doing, right?

It absolutely is. You will be thrilled, frustrated, challenged, and invigorated, and exercise professional muscles you didn’t know you had. You will get something that looks great on a CV, and will represent the collective goodwill of this great nation of ours. And, little by little, you will help libraries change lives everywhere.

The Australian Volunteers Program is an Australian Government-funded initiative.

Contact details:

Phone/WhatsApp: +61 400 355 540

Email: gtmwsl@gmail.com

Facebook/Messenger: https://www.facebook.com/michael.slater.965

LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/michael-slater-83881875/